A Hand-Pierced Star Ruby Ring
This custom ring was created around the client’s inherited star ruby, transforming a treasured gemstone into a bold contemporary design.
Hand-fabricated in yellow gold, the wide tapered band features an intricate hand-pierced lattice pattern that allows light to pass through the ring while creating strong visual texture. Small flush-set diamonds were incorporated into the design, adding subtle sparkle without competing with the star ruby’s unique character.
Star rubies display a star-like optical effect across the surface of the stone when viewed under direct light, making them quite different from traditional faceted rubies.
Design Development & Brief
The client wanted to reuse a sentimental star ruby in a design that felt distinctive and wearable.
Rather than creating a traditional setting, we developed a wide tapered band with a hand-pierced lattice pattern inspired by geometric metalwork. The oval cabochon ruby was positioned as the focal point, with small diamonds incorporated into the shoulders to add detail, balance and subtle contrast.
The finished design combines the presence of the inherited star ruby with an openwork structure that keeps the ring visually bold without feeling heavy.
The design was developed around the inherited star ruby, with a wide tapered band and hand-pierced lattice pattern used to create texture, lightness and structure.
Inside the Workshop
Every opening in the lattice pattern was individually drilled, pierced and refined by hand before the band was formed and assembled. The process required careful planning to maintain strength, symmetry and flow across the wide tapered ring.
Once the pierced work was complete, the ruby setting was fabricated and fitted, the diamonds were flush-set by hand, and the entire piece was polished and finished in our workshop.
The Finished Piece
The finished ring gives the inherited star ruby a completely new life.
The wide yellow gold band creates a bold contemporary silhouette, while the hand-pierced lattice pattern keeps the design open, detailed and wearable. Flush-set diamonds add small points of brightness across the shoulders, allowing the star ruby to remain the focus.
The result is a distinctive custom ring that preserves the sentimental value of the original gemstone while transforming it into a piece that feels modern and personal.
Metal: 9ct Yellow Gold
Feature Stone: Client’s inherited oval cabochon star ruby
Accent Stones: Round brilliant diamonds
Setting: Bezel-set ruby with flush-set diamond accents
Technique: Hand fabrication, hand-piercing & stone setting
Style: Bespoke inherited gemstone ring
Project Details
This project demonstrates how inherited gemstones can be reimagined into completely new designs without losing their sentimental value.
By building a custom ring around the client’s star ruby, the finished piece preserves an important family stone while creating something bold, contemporary and uniquely personal. The hand-pierced construction showcases traditional bench skills and gives the ring a distinctive character that could not be achieved through standard production methods.
Inherited star ruby
Hand-pierced lattice design
Wide tapered band
Handmade in yellow gold
Bezel-set cabochon ruby
Flush-set diamond accents
One-of-a-kind custom commission